Day Seven – More festival at the temple followed by tour of Karainagar

  7 April 2013

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More festivals at the temple. Only that today is being sponsored by my cousins who have been carrying on a tradition that started more than 100 years ago. With my connection to the temple, my female cousins roped me into carrying The Lord Ganesh around the temple. You quickly realise that being tall does not help. My cousins owe me a shoulder massage. We posed for a few photos and then began our tour of Karainager, our island homeland.

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We drove around looking at various houses that belong to relatives we know but now deserted. We stopped at our cousin’s grandfather’s place first. This was typical of most deserted houses. The house was built in the 1940’s but now in a state of decay.

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One of my cousins remembers staying here as a kid and recollects how she enjoyed the time here. We moved on from here to see my grandaunt.

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She is 83 and lives alone in a house built by her grandfather in 1923. She runs a crop farm and seem very independent and healthy. I told her I would come back later that evening to spend some time with here. We then moved on to the village where my mother was born and where my mother’s maternal grandfather lived. The village is called Kovalum and the prominent feature is the lighthouse.

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We also took in a glimpse of our ancestral land that is waterfront and now owned by my uncle in Malaysia who has no interest in coming to Sri Lanka. A few cousins are thinking of taking on the task of building something eco-sensitive on the land.

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We saw a few other places before retiring to the hotel for a wash and rest. While the others headed off to the temple again, I was dropped off at my grandaunt’s as I wanted to spend some time with her. I spent about 4 hours with her. I have great affinity with her as she was also born in Malaysia like me. Except that when she married my granduncle in 1956, she moved to Sri Lanka. It was just amazing talking to her and she enjoyed talking as she liked my company. She was a school teacher in Malaysia before she got married. She also lived through the Japanese occupation in Malaya. She could remember all the Japanese she was taught in school. It’s incredible for a woman who is 83. She also could clearly remember all the atrocities the Japanese committed in Malaya. It was very vivid in her mind. As a little boy, I knew her parents well. She also remembers the time as a teacher, when she made a goodwill visit to Japan. She visited Kyoto, Osaka, Tokyo to name a few. She said that the Japanese were welcoming, honest, orderly and clean. They were all very friendly towards the touring teachers but some how she could not forget the ill deeds of the Japanese in Malaya. We also talked about relations and this was helpful as I wanted more information to fill in the blanks on my family tree. I concluded the night by telling her that I would come back again with my cousin.

Day Six – Trip to Karainagar (our ancestral home island)

 6 April 2013

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We leave shortly after breakfast for a trip to Karainagar which is an island and about 30 mins away. This is where my ancestors came from. The island is connected to the mainland by a causeway.

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We had a half-day at the temple. It was hot. We had to dress in our traditional attire and topless. I got the outfit in Colombo. The temple sits on the land that my maternal great great grandfather, Ramanathan gave to setup the temple. Thus I have some connection here. This land grant would have happened around 1870.

There were various ceremonies conducted at the temple which included a parade of The Lord Ganesh around the temple. There were also various cultural programmes mingled with the ceremonies being conducted. These are ancient Hindu practices.

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This country is also full of old British cars. Check out this one, a Morris Oxford, parked outside the temple.682a

We got back to the hotel and got changed before heading out to Casuarina Beach, the premier spot on Karainagar.  690a

I was trying to catch a glimpse of the famous lighthouse.  Our maternal great grandfather, the infamous Thambiah, was known as lighthouse Thambiah because he lived in Kovalum close to this lighthouse. 688a

The lighthouse is visible in the picture. We are hoping to get to it but I am told the roads are bad. I also spotted the local Mr Whippy.  691a

Back in the room this evening and I saw an Australian Government ad on TV that was produced in Tamil. It is a message to discourage illegal departures by boat. It warns of treacherous conditions on the sea and that no jobs are available in Australia. It displays our old immigration minister, Chris Bowen, prominently. People are still keen to leave. Karainagar had a population of 45,000 in 1991. Now it is around 8000. There is plenty of abandoned buildings around.  It is the same in Jaffna township.  It is very sad.

Day Five – On the Road to Jaffna

5 April 2013

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It’s 4am. Getting packed to check out of hotel here for a 5am departure to Jaffna. The trip will take 10 hours by road. Meeting another cousin in Vavuniya which is 3 hours away from Jaffna. This will be a different from Colombo as it will be less developed, I am told.

Arrived Jaffna in good time as the roads are good now. New roads are being built after the war in rapid time. The road to Jaffna was interesting. We followed the coastal A3 road from Colombo and then cut at Puttalam onto the A12 road to the ancient city of Anuradapura, which we will visit again in a few days time, and then onto A9 into Jaffna.

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We went through Vavuniya which is a major town in the centre of the island and then proceeded into Kilinochchi. Here there are still military checkpoints. Just out of Vavuniya, there is a town called Omantai where we encountered a major military checkpoint. Our car had to be registered for entry. In addition, we had to produce our passports and our particulars were recorded. On the return trip, we have to ‘check out’. The military was keeping an account of everybody heading north. Following this point, you are confronted with the devastation of the war. There were minefields on both sides of the road that are still being cleared. Nearly every house along the way was damaged or had bullet holes. Still live is returning to normal in some pockets. Padi fields are extensive and in full production. Cows, goats and dogs are wondering about. Plenty of dogs around. We reached Elephant Pass in less than an hour.

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Not sure why it is called Elephant Pass as there are no elephants around. The Elephant Pass is a narrow causeway that is strategic and was the site of numerous battles.

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It felt rather eerie how quiet it is now. Following another hours drive we arrived in Jaffna through narrow busy streets. However roads are still being rebuilt and the town is a hive of activity. We checked into the hotel and met my relatives. We had lunch.

It is quite hot here. About 35C and dry heat. Rooms are air-conditioned in the hotel but otherwise it is basic. Nevertheless, it is comfortable. In the evening, we visited my grandmother’s first cousin who lived down the road. He is a retired public servant who worked in the central bank in Colombo for some 37 years. We managed to have a yarn and caught up on stories about relatives. I gathered some good information for my family tree project. This man is affectionately known among the cousins as ‘white-and-white’ because during his working life he dressed in a white shirt and white pants. It was probably the norm among public servants in those days.

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At night, after dinner, Siraj, my cousins husband decided to take us on a quick ‘hoon’ around town. He had a Toyota Hi-lux that he borrowed from his brother in Colombo and we sat at the back for a quick tour. After 10pm, the streets were deserted except for a few eating shops. We stopped in front of one such shop and had coffee and tea brought to us. Real ‘drive-through’ service. The shop assistant did it with a smile, like Maccas, only thing is that he was an old man who probably lived through the war.

Day Four – In Colombo

 4 April 2013

Today was a whole day in Colombo. We took an early morning walk. It was hazy this morning. Some rain came later. We examined the hotel from outside and admired the ocean walk.

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My cousin Lakshmi arrived from Kuala Lumpur in the early morning. She is staying at the same hotel. We met for breakfast at 8:30am. Then we met a friend of Lakshmi, Faisal, who is a gem dealer. He gave us some finer points of gem buying and what to look for. The we proceeded to go around Colombo on a shopping trip. We went to a huge shop, Laksala which sold local products. We are coming back here to buy souvenirs for the trip back after going north. Then we went to another large shop called Ranjanas to buy our traditional white attire for the temples that we will be visiting in the north. They are very strict in the north with attire. We went to a few other shops including Bear Foot which is quite unique. The shop is in a traditional house with a courtyard that has a bar and restaurant. Inside, it houses a bookshop, homewares, clothing, home decorations and the like. Coming back here again after Jaffna. We had to meet someone who was making a delivery by some railway line. The trains passing by were packed.

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We then proceeded to do a tour of Colombo including Independence Square, where the British handed Ceylon it’s independence.

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Day Three – Trip to Galle

 3 April 2013

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Galle is the fourth largest city in Sri Lanka and is split between the old city within the walls of the old Dutch Fort and the new city. It is almost the southern most city on the island and about 125kms from Colombo. Again the drive there by the coastal road is about 3.5 hours (in blue on map above) although there is a new inland highway (in red on map above) which we used on our return trip. On the way we stopped at a turtle rescue refuge which was destroyed by the Boxing Day Tsunami in 2004. As a matter of fact, most of the south coastal towns bore the brunt of the Tsunami. They experienced 7m waves. Our guide tells us that about 50,000 people died in the Tsunami in Sri Lanka. Then we stopped at a moonstone mine, apparently the only place in the world! We bought some cinnamon oil (some diversification in the business model) which is produced on-site. Cinnamon oil has medicinal properties for toothaches and for soothing congested heads when down with the flu. We had lunch in Galle and then toured the city. I am a bit disappointed as the old structures are sometimes in a state of disrepair and renovations to old houses are somewhat piecemeal.  Galle has a huge Muslim population, about 90%.

We got a local SIM card today which was quite an experience. These were the steps:
1. Get a number at reception and wait for your turn. We waited 30 mins.
2. Show the rep your passport and he fills out a form and opens an account while you are there. He sends you off to pay for the SIM.
3. The person at the payment counter checks the forms and sends you off to the cashier.
4. The cashier accepts your payment.
5. Return to previous counter with receipt and collect paperwork left there.
6. Go back to first counter attended to finalise account.
7. Go to another counter to have SIM topped up but first you need to fill out a form.
8. Get SIM topped up on the spot by cashier here who presses a few buttons on her ageing Nokia.
9. Smile and get the hell out of there!

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Day Two – Day Trip to Kandy

 2 April 2013

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We had a great breakfast at the hotel. There was local and Western fair served. We had the local food; the only thing Western we had was orange juice and coffee. We had hoppers called appams, dosai (pancakes) and rice accompanied by mutton curry, sambols (coconut, mint, onion), sambar (soupy gravy with dhal) and other dishes. We really ate. All for Rs575 which is under $5.

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We engaged a driver/guide and car for the rest of our trip in Sri Lanka from the Travel Desk at the hotel. The driver Jagath, had picked us up from the airport too when we arrived and will also take us and drop us off in Jaffna and come back to pick us up.  Jagath is a affable man of Sinhalese descent.  He is very polite and courteous.  We had lots of fun with him and learnt a lot from him.  586a

Then we drove to Kandy, which is only 120km away but took us 3 hours to get there. The traffic with trucks, tuk-tuks, cars and motor cycles was out of this world. They all have an understanding, an unwritten rule that you need to know. Foreign drivers will struggle because we have a different way of thinking.

On the way, Charles had the urge to taste the local coconut called king coconut.  They were yellow/orange in colour. So we stopped for a coconut drink.20130403-074951.jpg

Kandy was the home of the last kingdom of Sri Lanka. Many came and were not able to conquer it because it sits high in the highland. The British, somehow managed to banish the king in 1815 to Mauritius.20130403-075902.jpg

We visited the famous Tooth temple which holds the tooth of Buddha. We were in shorts which is not acceptable attire and so we had to hire for Rs200 ($1 = Rs135) sarongs to cover our hairy legs.20130403-080441.jpg

Entry to the temple was Rs1000; we bought flowers for offering and hired a guide. The temple dates back from about 1700 years ago. Behind the temple is the castle where the last King of Kandy lived and next to it is the royal court.20130403-081128.jpg

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The inner temple is made of wood that is decorated by old paintings.20130403-080913.jpg

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The inner temple was reasonably crowded with school children and pilgrims.  We came at the wrong time to see the Kandyan dancers and the elephants being paraded.  The performance takes place 3 times a day at specific times.

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Arrived in Colombo

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We left Sydney at 12:30pm. Few issues at security check. I had a water bottle with water. Got pulled over and made to empty bottle. Then we were were set. It is now 2am in Colombo. We are at the Galle Face Hotel (GFH) feeling a bit worn out. We had a 7.5 hour flight to Singapore on an A380. We were met at the airport by my school mate Logan, his wife Vasantha and friend David. We had a sumptuous dinner at Changi Village.

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We were dropped off at the airport to catch a 11:05pm flight from Singapore to Colombo. The flight to Colombo was about 3.5 hours. We were met at the airport here by Jagath who is a driver/guide attached to the hotel. Tomorrow we will start our tour with Kandy.