Day Thirteen – Tour of the Western Front

8 Sep 2018

We had booked a small group (up to 16) tour of the Western Front. We decided to do this tour the day after we arrived in Paris. We could not have foreseen the fact that we arrived in Paris late due to the flight delay. We were supposed to meet at 6:40 am outside the Paris Tourist Office in Pyramides. We made it to the Paris Tourist Office outside the Town Hall. We realised after some time  we were at the wrong spot. Pyramides was not near and we needed a taxi. We had difficulty getting a taxi and so I booked an Uber that arrived in 4 mins. While in the Uber car, the tour guide called me to enquire about our whereabouts. I told him we were waiting at the wrong spot but now we were in a Uber cab and on our way. We just made it in time. 

Our tour group was a small one; just six of us. There was a Canadian couple, a young Australian couple from Melbourne and us. We had a mini-van that was very comfortable for all of us. We felt quite lucky to get a small group.

The drive to the Western Front was more than 2 hours.  On the way, the guide gave us a run down of the programme for the day and also outlined some of the historical facts. He was full of knowledge and had an iPad with photographs from the period to illustrate various topics he was discussing.

We got to the Australian Memorial at about 9:20am. It opens at 9:30am. No one was there. The guide had good timing. He gave us a guide of the site and graves. It is actually a Commonwealth grave with most being Australian. There were British and Canadians buried here. The good thing about coming early is also it allows me to capture uninterrupted picture of the whole area. 

Australian National Memorial and John Monash Centre - Villers-Bretonneux
Australian Memorial looking down at Commonwealth graves towards the town of Amiens which the German objective. All Australian graves are marked by similar crosses to what is shown here. There are over 280 Commonwealth graves in Somme.

Gravestone of an unknown soldier

Most burial plots are near where the soldiers fell. The exception here will be the La Chapelette British and Indian Cemetery in Peronne where there are 571 identified graves and 6 unidentified. The 5th Indian Cavalry Division led the only cavalry charge on the Western front.

There is also a Chinese Cemetery at Noyelles-sur-Mer. The Chinese were brought in as labourers to build British war infrastructure and fortification. They mostly died of illness and mainly the Spanish flu.

View of memorial as the sun comes through
Looking toward Amiens
Entrance to memorial tower
Front of memorial tower
View from within tower
Aerial view towards Amiens. Fields between Amiens and memorial were battleground.
Villers-Bretonneux - church steeple visible. Fields in front were the battleground.
Aerial view through tower pillars
Furphy wall brick. John Furphy was a blacksmith from Victoria. He was famous for the Furphy water carts. Soldiers used to stand around the cart and exchange tales. Some of them were tall tales. Thus the slang "that's a furphy" was born. John Furphy's daughter is Dianne's great grandmother on the maternal side.
Tribute to Henry George Moore flashed up on large screen at John Monash Centre. Henry Moore is Dianne's granduncle who died on the Western Front and buried at Polygon Wood Cemetry in Belgium. According to his war records, he was a 27 year old farmer from Shepperton. He died within 7 months of enlistment.
Wall at memorial with names of missing soldiers inscribed.
Somme River that runs through Amiens and most of the battleground.

The Red Baron (Manfred von Richthofen) sustained a serious head wound and crashed in Vaux sur Somme on 6th July 2017. He was pursued by a Canadian pilot but later investigation credited Australian ground fire for bringing down the plane. He was 27 when he died.

Sign to Lochnagar Mine - Mine crater is located in La Boisselle. The mine was dug underneath German fortification by British Engineers and denoted on 1 July 2016. About 200 German soldiers were believed to have perished in the explosion. It is the largest crater in France from WW1.
Across fields from mine crater looking towards Albert.

British War Memorial in Thiepval

Fields near the town of Thiepval
Town of Thiepval. Town was completely rebuilt after the war.

The British War Memorial was large and impressive. After our visit of this site in Thiepval, we headed for the Newfoundland Memorial Park dedicated to Canadian soldiers. Most of the Canadian soldiers were from Newfoundland.  This site also contains reasonably preserved war trenches.

Caribou Memorial - this was essentially the Canadian position facing the German line.

Trenches in Newfoundland Memorial Park

The Newfoundand Memorial Park in Beaumont-Hamel is an actual battleground. It is littered with reasonably well preserved trenches. In other areas of Somme, trenches have been covered up and farming now takes place. The trenches in this park are exactly as they were 100 years ago.The original trenches were a lot deeper. Over time, soil fell into the trenches.

The Danger Tree - the only original petrified tree from the period. Many Canadians fell around this tree.
Looking across to the German lines from The Danger Tree.
German Trench
Laneway of Maple Trees heading back to Caribou Memorial
Dianne near Caribou Memorial.

View of battleground at Newfoundland Memorial Park

After Newfoundland Memorial Park, we headed for the town of Peronne for lunch. Peronne was a German stronghold during the war and was heavily shelled by the allies. We also visited the museum in town which had relics from the war period including period uniforms and weapons.

Town Hall
Roo de Kanga sign on Town Hall building
Somme River at Peronne
Back in Paris

Day Twelve – Leaving Malta for Paris

7 Sep 2018

We were leaving hot and humid Malta for Paris. Our flight is at 3:10pm. We decided to leave early so that I could return the rental car and possibly allowing enough time for us to get lost along the way. There is also the issue of the chaotic traffic in Malta. Not sure why we hired a car in the first place.

We arrived at the airport in good time. I dropped Dianne at departures and I went around to drop the car. The rental car area is at the far end of the car park which is a good distance from the terminal. In the hot sun, it is hard work walking back to the terminal.

We checked in with no issues. Both our bags came in around 21.6 to 21.7 kgs; within the 23 kgs limit. We went through the usual security screening and parked ourselves on some comfy seat about 2 hours ahead of departure time. Unbeknown to us, our flight was delayed. It was now taking off at 5:45 pm! That is some 2 hours and 35 minutes later. There was no announcements. It was just indicated on the board.

We were not expecting Malta Airport to be Changi International Airport but still it was a real challenge during the wait period. Air-conditioning at the airport was not good and so we sat down on seats directly under the air-conditioning vents. There was a piano in the passenger area of the airport. Waiting passengers took turns playing on the piano. It was good entertainment and there was some great piano playing.

At 5 past 5, the indicator board flashed that Gate 2 as the departure gate. We quickly rushed to queue. After a wait of about 20 minutes or so, we were allowed to board. Flight took off as normal. There is absolutely no complimentary inflight service. Air Malta is a budget airlines; you pay for everything. We ordered some food and drinks which seemed like an involved process. There was someone onboard with a severe nut allergy. An announcement was made asking us to refrain from consuming any nuts. I ordered a tapas tray and beer. Dianne ordered bread roll with eggplant and pesto filling. She was informed that this was off the menu at it contained nut products in it. She ordered another bread roll. The food arrived shortly. My beer was warm. Dianne requested 2 cups of ice so that we could chill our drinks. Dianne’s bread roll was stale. My tapas was not too bad. We should not complain too much. It is highly unlikely we will be catching Air Malta again.

We were glad to touchdown at Orly. Weather was a coolish 21C. We breezed through the exit (no immigration or customs as we came from an EU country) and queued up for a taxi. After a short wait, we were on our way to the hotel. All taxis from the airport charge a flat fare to Paris.

Our AirBnb apartment in Paris was already booked for our first 2 night in Paris. I booked a boutique hotel named Hotel Original Paris which was near Place de la Bastille, for 2 nights. We were welcomed warmly by manager on our arrival. We were given a room upgrade and free breakfast for the 2 days. We were leaving early the next morning for a trip to the Western Front. The manager organised an early breakfast for 5:45 am. He was even going to bring it up to us in the morning.  That is real service.

Hotel Original Paris

Day Eleven – Harbour Cruise

6 Sep 2018

It’s our last day in Malta. Tomorrow we fly to Paris. We bought tickets for a harbour cruise a few days back. We thought we would do it today. Meaghan, Fiona and Nigel were joining us. The others decided to go to Mdina and Rabat.

We made our way to Sliema where all the tour boats operate from. We were ushered into one of the boats. After a short wait, we were on our way.

Leaving behind Sliema
Fort Manoel on Manoel Island (1733)
Another view of Fort Manoel
Fort St Elmo (1793)

Views of Fort St Elmo

Carmelite Church from Valletta harbour
Close-up of Carmelite Church with men working on the dome
Small lighthouse in harbour
Another view of lighthouse in Valletta harbour
Wall of Fort St Angelo (13th century)

Views of Fort St Angelo

Another view of Fort St Angelo
View of Valletta from Harbour

Day Ten – Drive to Mdina and Rabat

5 Sep 2018

Today we decided to drive to the ancient city of Mdina and Rabat. They are next to each other. The drive after breakfast was manageable. Traffic was not too bad by Maltese standards. When we got there, parking was an issue. There were cars and tourist buses everywhere. The carpark was full and people had resorted to parking in handicap zones. We drove slightly out of the city (about a 5 min walk) and parked the car in a parking bay along the main road to Rabat. This as it turned out was more sensible than parking in the city.

Mdina was called by various names throughout history. The Arabs named in Medina. The current name is a bastardisation of this name. The Arabs extended the city walls to include surrounding areas which they called Rabat.

Walled city of Mdina on approach.
View from Mdina
Approaching Rabat. Note old disused railway bridge. The British built a rail network that is now disused.
Main gate into Mdina (1724)
Lion statue at main gate

We decided to take a mini-train tour of Mdina and Rabat. These rides, like in Valletta usually gave a good overview of the area.

St Agatha's Chapel
St Peter's Chapel
Tiled feature outside St Peter's
Back of main gate
Laneway off main street
Metropolitan Cathedral
Narrow laneway off main street
Inside of a cathedral
Another view inside catedral
A narrow laneway in Mdina
Old dwellings in Mdina
View towards Rabat with disused railway bridge in the middle

Day Nine – Trip to Comino and Blue Lagoon

4 Sep 2018

We were all interested in doing a boat trip to Comino and Blue Lagoon which is next to Gozo. Larry volunteered to organise the trip. He made the arrangements with a tour company in Paceville. We were all ready at 9am and we made it to the tour company. There were 12 of us. It was going to be a hot day and we were prepared a day of swimming and wallowing in the waters of the Blue Lagoon. We were all then ushered to a bus stop and boarded one of the hop-on-hop-off tour buses for a ride to Sliema. Sliema is where all the tour boats depart on various trips.

We were early. We boarded the boat and waited a while before the trip began. Drinks including beer and wine were included in the package we had. It was a pleasant boat ride and we got to see Malta and her shoreline from the sea.

Gozo at Mgarr harbour with mock-Gothic church in background.
Fort Chambray on Gozo

We booked ourselves on a power boat trip that would take us into the grottos around Comino.

Power boat trailing our boat to Comino

Being loaded up into power boat and ready to go.

Entering a grotto near the Blue Lagoon

Into another grotto

The Blue Lagoon. Packed with people and not a beach space in sight. You pay for umbrellas and beach space. Area is surrounded by rocks.
We decided to swim off our boat. It was more pleasant and less chaotic. It was a wise decision.

View around Blue Lagoon

View of Comino on the trip back
Westin Dragonara at St Julian's from the sea. We were staying at the Westin. There is unceasing development all around.