Day Five – Day Trip to Neuschwanstein Castle

31 Aug 2018

Today we  made a day trip to Neuschwanstein Castle.  Walt Disney made a trip here in the 1930s and modelled the Disneyland Castle on this castle.  The castle was constructed from 1869 to 1886. It was never completed. This was one of King Ludwig II’s splurge on castle building that sent Bavaria into debt at that time.

The day trip will be a total of 10 hours. It takes 2 hours to get to the castle. Then there is a steep 1 mile walk up to the castle. There are coaches and horse drawn carts that will take you to the top. All of us in our group decided to walk up.

Our tour guide was great and was an absolute fountain of knowledge. She was informative and gave us this complete history of the castle. The made the trip more complete. The only thing is that the weather was not kind to us. It rained for the entire trip although it was not pouring heavy. This made photography a bit challenging as the pictures below show.

Hohenschwangau Castle (12th Century) - Official summer and hunting residence of King Maximillian and Queen Marie

Hohenschwangau Castle is almost across the road from Neuschwanstein Castle. King Ludwig II and his brother Otto spent summers with their parents in this castle.

Hall End of Castle - Hall and Throne rooms are at this end

Neuschwanstein Castle in the fog

Pictures above taken from a bridge, half a mile up from the castle. It was raining and misty. Adds to the atmosphere of mystique.

Our guide booked those interested in a 35 min guided tour inside the castle.  It was an eye opener. I would not say it was ostentatious. It is just that King Ludwig II had a real passion for detail and craftsmanship without regard to cost. We can clearly see that this was an expensive project. When the King died under mysterious circumstances (and it is still a mystery) in 1886, all construction came to a halt.  Therefore the castle was never completed.

We could not take any pictures inside the castle so you have two options here:

  1. Google for the pics.
  2. Make the trip yourself.
Town below from castle
Hohenschwangau Castle with view of two wings

King Maximillian and Queen Marie resided in the building to the left and building on the right housed the servants and the quarters for Ludwig and Otto.  The King and Queen rarely saw their sons.

Alpsee Lake - near castles

Day Four – Third Day in Munich

30 Aug 2018

We decided to have an unplanned day today. After breakfast we decided to visit the site of the 1972 Munich Olympics. Dianne’s father was involved in these games and was Manager of the Australian Cycling team.

We bought a day tripper ticket which cost 19 euros for the both of us. It enabled us to travel on all forms of transport (train, bus, tram) and also provided discounts at various venues. The transport system is great in Munich. It is based on an honour system. There are no turnstiles or gates. You buy a ticket and get into a train or bus or tram. At your destination, you disembark and leave station through several exits provided. No dramas.

We caught a train to the Olympic site. It was an adventure in itself.  We took the wrong train as we discovered later. A train and 2 bus rides later we arrived at the site. It is next to the BMW factory and exhibition venue.  A short walk through a park got us to the site.

We were heading for a tower at the site. We will get a great view of Munich from the top of the tower.is

Main Olympic Site
Olympic Stadium
Block that housed the Israeli athletes that was attacked.
Swimming Venue

Unfortunately, the cycling velodrome was demolished in 2015 to make way for new construction. So, we didn’t get to see where Dianne’s dad would have spend most of his time.

BMW Headquarters and factory beyond
Looking back at the centre of Munich. Church towers of Frauenkirche is clearly visible.
Feldherrnhalle in the evening. This area is significant as it was the site of a failed coup by Hitler and Nazi party in the 1920s. It later became a site for annual Nazi commemoration and other ceremonies.

Day Three – Second day in Munich

29 Aug 2018

Morning Walking Tour of Munich

We pre-booked a walking tour of Munich to familiarise ourselves with the city using a local.  The meeting point was at the Munich Central Station which was across the streeet from our hotel.

Our guide was a proud Bavarian who grew up in Munich.  We were told that 80% of Munich was damaged by allied bombing in WW2.  Our guide felt that Munich was penalised because it was the birthplace of Nazism although Hitler was in Munich for only 12 years.

A rapid rebuilding programme began after the war and intensified when Munich won the right to host the Olympics in 1972.  Most of the buildings were rebuilt with outside to look like the original buildings but the inside is all modern.

There are 76 churches in town.  Most of them are Catholic with a few Protestant.

Courthouse for serious criminals and tax evaders
Statues on the gates of the old city wall
Towers of Frauenkirche (Cathedral Church of our lady - 1240)
One of the doorways into Frauenkirche

Interior of Frauenkirche. It also contains the tomb of Emperor Ludwig IV of Bavaria.

The famed Hofbrauhaus Brewery (1589). On a dark side, this is where in 1920 Hitler had his first meeting of the National Socialists. The upstairs Festival Room where the meetings took place, is rarely visited.

Our walk ended in Marienplatz.  I had a 1:15pm tour to Dachau which Dianne was not keen on. We had lunch and I headed for my tour. We were meeting in front of the tourist information office in Marientplatz.

Tour of Dachau Concentration Camp

We took a train from Marienplatz to Dachau. Our guide told us that the station where we got off is the exact station where detainees would have got off trains transporting them. This felt eery. The camp itself was 2km from the station. The prisoners usually walked or were transported on lorries. We took a bus to the Dachau Historical site.

Dachau started out as a camp for Germans (mostly intellects and political opponents). This was enabled by the suspension of regular German law covering human rights and allowed for detention without trial. With the change of political attitudes in Germany, later inmates were Gypsies, homosexuals, Jehovah Witnesses and finally the Jews.

It is interesting to note that the British used detention without trial in the colonies to suppress political dissent. Some of these laws have been used and still maintained in ex-colonial countries. Australia is inching in that direction without proper oversight.

Sign at entrance to Historical Site

Dachau was built as a model camp with the latest technology available. It was to be the template for other concentration camps built by the Nazis.  Outside the camp, Dachau also hosted the training school for SS soldiers.

Main Gatehouse and Commandant's Office
Dachau Camp Gate
Gate into camp with slogan used in most concentration camps - "Arbeit macht frei" or translated to "work sets you free"
Registration and processing room. Inmates are given a number which is sewn onto their prison clothes. This is the point where they lose their identity and just become a number.
"No Smoking" sign in Registration room
Snapshot of Dachau Prisoner Origin

Dachau was one of the last camps to be liberated. The statistics above shows increase in prisoner numbers towards the end of the war.  This is because as the Germans were losing ground to the east to Russians and to the west to the Americans, French and British, inmates from concentration camps in those areas were being transported to Dachau.

Looking at Barracks across Roll Call area from Central Utilities Building
View of Barracks beyond Roll Call area
Memorial sculpture to victims
On the way to Crematorium
Main Crematorium Building
Fumigation Cubicle with doors on either side
Gas Chamber
Old Crematorium. About 11,000 were cremated here. A new one had to be built to keep up with inmates arriving.
Memorial to Dachau inmates

Munich at night...

Day Two – First day in Munich

28 Aug 2018

We left Sydney at 3pm on Monday, 27th August.  We had a 3 hour layover in Singapore.  Changi Airport has plenty to do and see.  We relaxed in the Singapore Airlines lounge for a bit before boarding the flight just after midnight for Munich.

We arrived into Munich at 6:45am on Tuesday, 28th August.  We caught the airport shuttle which was going to Munich Central station as the final destination.  Our hotel is opposite the station.  To our surprise, the drop-off (and pick-up) point is just across the road from the hotel.  The hotel check-in time is 2pm.  We decided to walk around Munich with a map to see as much of the town as possible.  According to our tracker, we walked for a good 8 kms and saw most of central Munich.  There is a lot of old Munich town.  Lots of historical buildings.  This is also the birthplace of the 3rd Reich.

We got back to the hotel after lunch at about 1:30pm.  Our room was ready and we decided to shower and have a bit of rest.

Europe Trip 2018

We leave on Monday, 27th August for our trip to Europe.  First stop is Munich.  Our intention is to get to Malta after that.  There are no direct flights from Australia to Malta.  You have the option of going via Greece, Italy or Germany.  We picked via Germany and therefore Munich.

Munich should be interesting.  Malta has plenty of history and Paris is of course timeless.  We are meeting our friends in Malta to celebrate Fiona’s 60th birthday.

Day Seventeen – Last Day in Colombo

Tuesday 16 February 2016

This was our last full day in Colombo.  We were leaving at different times to different destinations.  All of us were leaving tomorrow.  Charles and I were heading to Singapore on a 1:10 am flight which means we would be picked up around 9:30pm today.  Sangaran’s flight to Kuala Lumpur is at 1:00 pm.  Logan and Vasantha’s flight to Chennai is at 1:30pm.  Finally, Susie and Shantini’s flight to Kuala Lumpur is at 11:00 pm.  Transport has been arranged to take the various parties to the airport.

Today, Susie and I were keen to get to the departmental store called Barefoot.  I went to the store the last time I was here in 2013 and wanted to make a visit before I left the country but did not make it.  This time I was keen to buy some presents to take home.  The store had everything Sri Lankan, from books and handicrafts to material and clothes.  It is vibrant and different.  There is also a good restaurant attached to the store.  Shantini decided to come with us to have a look.  We decided to walk to the store.  It was not too far and took us about an hour.  We spent some time shopping.  I bought a few items to take home.  Susie did the same.  Shantini who came with us to just have a look, bought half the shop.  Susie and I retreated to the restaurant to have some refreshments while we waited for Shantini.  We had lunch at the restaurant.

Susie and I decided to walk back.  This was not feasible in Shantini’s case.  We loaded her and her shopping onto a tuk-tuk to take her back to the apartment.  We got back to the apartment and rested a bit.  We decided to meet Logan and Vasantha for a catch up and dinner.  We came back to the apartment early so that Charles and I could do a final pack of our bags.  Siraj and Shanta who were in Colombo dropped in to see us and also extend their condolences to me.  Shanta knew my mother from all those years ago in Malaysia.

Before long, Charles and I were picked up for the airport.  Colombo airport is very confusing and lacks order.  So some patience was required.  We cleared formalities and soon we were on the air side ready to board our plane.  Another memorable trip comes to an end but it would not be my last.  Jagath is keen for me to bring my family over.  Dianne needs some convincing as she is not a fan of hot weather.  On the other hand, Alyssa is very keen.

Day Sixteen – Back to Colombo

Monday 15 February 2016

We leave Jaffna today for Colombo. The train departs Jaffna at 1:42pm and arrive in Colombo at 8:00pm.  I have organised our driver for the last few days, Ria, to take us to the Jaffna Railway Station.  At the other end in Colombo, I will need to confirm with Jagath while on the train about our transport from Colombo Railway Station to our accomodation.  I know Jagath will come good.

Our morning was relaxed.  We were mostly packed except for a few items.  We had a leisurely breakfast and headed back to our rooms.  Just before 12 noon,  Sangaran got a call from his sister informing him that my mother had passed away in Singapore.  This was a sad end to the trip however I felt that my mother’s death was not unexpected.  I heard my mother was not in good health of late and I just resigned to the fact that it was her time.  I shared the news with the rest in the group.  I could not do much at this stage as we needed to check out of the hotel and get to the station.  Logan had generously volunteered to look after the final financial matters as I needed to make a few phone calls.

Ria met us at the hotel at noon.  We packed the van and headed to the station, well ahead of time.  Better to be early than late.  Many things went through my mind while waiting for the train but I was also figuring a way to change my flight to get to Singapore for the funeral. I had a flight booked with Charles to fly out of Colombo at 1:10am on the 17th Feb.  The flight would arrive in Singapore at 7:40am.  I however felt that the funeral might take place on the 16th.

The train was slightly late.  We boarded the train and stacked our suitcases as before without much trouble.

On the platform at Jaffna Railway Station look North
Train arriving
Looking south towards the head of the train

After a 10 minute wait we were on our way.  The smoothness of the ride was going to be in reverse now.  It will be smooth out of Jaffna and then rocky towards Colombo.  When we were about an hour or so on the train, I tried calling Singapore Airlines to change my flight.  Communication on the mobile phone was tricky while on the train.  After several attempts and speaking to a few people, I was told the earlier flight was full.   A bit later I was able to get Jagath who had confirmed that transport had been arranged to pick us up from the railway station.  Jagath was on tour with another group and therefore could not meet us in Colombo himself.

In Colombo we were booked for 2 nights at Tiesh by Lakmini.  It is an apartment block above a jewellery shop and the owners of the shop were also owners of the apartments above.  It is a new building.  We were booked into a 3  bedroom apartment.  The apartment is modern with modern facilities.  It was big difference to what we were staying at in Jaffna.  Logan and Vasantha were back staying at the Sea View Hotel.  A few in the group went out to get some food.  After dinner we all headed for bed.

Day Fifteen – Trip to Mullaitivu

Sunday 14 Feb 2016

Today we have a full day trip to Mullaitivu. I was keen to see this area as it was the LTTE stronghold and where the  made their last stand in the civil war.  The lagoon area called Nanthikadal was site of alleged massacre of civilians who were cornered and had no where to go during the final stages of the war.  Along the way, there will be various sites from the war years that would be interesting, including a museum holding captured LTTE weapons.  Prabhakaran’s bunker (apparently 4 stories underground), Sea Tiger training centre and other LTTE command centres are also in this area.  We learnt from later from our van driver that most of these sites have been demolished by the government.  We were also recommended to visit the famed Vattapallai Kannaki Amman Temple in Mullaitivu.  Following Mullaitivu, we will make a trip to Vavuniya to visit Susie’s uncle.

MullaitivuTrip

From Jaffna we drove through Elephant Pass and to Kilinochchi.  First stop was the Water Tower that was blown up by the LTTE during the final stages of the war.

Blown up water tank

Next stop was the Iranamadu Tank.  This reservoir was built in 1902.

Dam at Iranamadu Tank

After more than an hours drive, we arrived in the town of Puthukkudiyiruppu which is home to a war museum that houses LTTE weapons and hardware.  It was interesting to walk through this place and look at the various captured weapons on display.  A lot of these weapons and equipment are improvised but have proven somewhat effective during the civil war.

Artillery pieces and shells on display
Torpedoes and launcher
Small sea craft at museum
Large sea craft
Logan beside a speedboat

After the war museum we headed towards Nanthikadal.  To my disappointment, the contentious beach area was fenced off by the army with sentry posts at regular intervals.  There were alleged human rights abuses here and the government was keen to keep the evidence away from prying eyes.

Nanthikadal Lagoon
Beach at Mullaitivu

Going around the Nanthikadal lagoon we came to the famed Vattapallai Kannaki Amman Temple.  Vattapallai is the area in which the temple is located.  I am unsure about the history of this temple.

Vattapallai Kannaki Amman Temple
Inside of temple
The temple cow

After the temple visit we made our way to Vavuniya to have a meal at Susie’s uncle’s place.  We had a great meal and Susie’s uncle and aunt were warm and welcoming.

The drive back to Jaffna was about 2.5 hours and we arrived at the hotel at night.

Day Fourteen – Lazy Day

Saturday 13 Feb 2016

Today we decided to do nothing but go shopping and hang loose.  Most of my other relatives were leaving today, mostly to Malaysia and Melbourne.  They were catching the 1:45 train back to Colombo.  We went to see my granduncle again this morning.  He lived down the road.  He is a treasure of information.  Even though he is 84, he is pretty sharp.  Having worked at the Central Bank in Colombo all his working life, our conversation is in English.  This is a welcome relief to us as our Tamil is well below local standards.

We returned to the hotel to bid farewell to the departing group.  At this point the sun was really belting down and so we decided to wait a while before hitting the shops.  At about 2pm we decided to make our move.  Our group split up at the shopping area.  Susie and I went separately.  I had to get a few things, including spices and some clothes for my nieces in Singapore.  We then went to a restaurant to have some refreshments.  It is hot here, quite similar to Sydney but slightly humid.  We returned to the hotel after the drinkl.  We later went to a supermarket for a second round of shopping.

That evening Logan had organised a feast at the hotel.  Jaffna crab curry was prepared in 3 versions.  Due to my allergy, I had fish curry.  We had some vegetable curry and rice to go.  It was a wonderful feast and seemed to have gone for hours.  An American couple in the next table were looking at us enviously.  As they were leaving, they greeted us and commented on our feast.

Day Thirteen – Temple Consecreation

Friday 12 Feb 2016

Today was an early start.  Consecration ceremonies at temple was beginning at 6am.  It should be finished by 7:30am.  Timing is important for Hindus who look to astrologers for auspicious times.  The temple is known as the Sri Katpaga Vinayagar Temple in the village of  Varivalavu.

Main entrance and Gopuram (tower) of Temple
Temple procession team assembles
Main hall in temple
Corridor in temple
Temple drummers ready for proceedings
Early worshippers at temple
Beginning of temple procession
Procession entering temple
Priests blessing main Gopuram of temple during consecration
Worshippers on temple grounds
Even in a remote village in northern Sri Lanka, leading edge technology is being utilised. Notice drones in sky that are equipped with cameras
Minor Gopuram on side of temple
Male team at temple – the group is made up of people from Malaysia, Singapore, Toronto, Melbourne, Sydney and Sri Lanka
Another view of Gopuram of temple

After the temple proceedings, we decided to do a tour of Karainagar, the island from which my ancestors came from.  First stop was the famous Casuarina Beach.  It is more relaxed here now.  The last I was here 3 years ago, there an army sentry stationed here.  This  was followed by a visit to my maternal ancestral homeland.

Temple devoted to Lord Shiva near Casuarina Beach
Cow on temple grounds
Casuarina Beach in Karainagar
Looking at the lighthouse in Kovalum from Casuarina Beach

After Casuarina Beach, it was time to head for Kovalum, the village my maternal grandmother came from.  It is rough road that is unsealed.  No many live in the village now except for a few.  Our van driver could not make the trip due to road conditions.  We decided to use a Tuk-tuk to make the journey.  Vijaya negotiated a price of 600 rupees with a Tuk-tuk driver for us to make the journey.  My cousin Sangaran, Palini a close family friend and myself decided to make the journey.  We went to the first property that belong to one of our relatives.  Then we made the trip to the beach front where the actual land is.  Part of the land, as we thought, was occupied by the navy.  We later realised upon surveying the land, it was not the case.  To our surprise, the navy personnel were friendly and helpful.  This really surprised me.  The end result is that we were able to inspect our ancestral land with great ease.  Paling who can speak Sinhalese facilitated this.  We were also advised by the navy personnel to register our interest in the land with the Grama Niladhari, who is local village level government official who is meant to keep track of land in his allotted area.  This way if others came to ask about the land or try to assume ownership, this official could advise them accordingly.

Maternal grandmother’s land looking from adjoining properties owned by her nephews
Lighthouse in Kovalum
View of lighthouse from up the beach
View from Grandmother’s land
Grandmother’s land looking away from the sea
Grandmother’s land looking towards the sea

We decided to end the day by relaxing and recovering from the events of the day back at the hotel.  We needed it especially because of the early start.  Needless to say, I had a nap which I most enjoyed.

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