Tag Archives: France

Day Thirteen – Tour of the Western Front

8 Sep 2018

We had booked a small group (up to 16) tour of the Western Front. We decided to do this tour the day after we arrived in Paris. We could not have foreseen the fact that we arrived in Paris late due to the flight delay. We were supposed to meet at 6:40 am outside the Paris Tourist Office in Pyramides. We made it to the Paris Tourist Office outside the Town Hall. We realised after some time  we were at the wrong spot. Pyramides was not near and we needed a taxi. We had difficulty getting a taxi and so I booked an Uber that arrived in 4 mins. While in the Uber car, the tour guide called me to enquire about our whereabouts. I told him we were waiting at the wrong spot but now we were in a Uber cab and on our way. We just made it in time. 

Our tour group was a small one; just six of us. There was a Canadian couple, a young Australian couple from Melbourne and us. We had a mini-van that was very comfortable for all of us. We felt quite lucky to get a small group.

The drive to the Western Front was more than 2 hours.  On the way, the guide gave us a run down of the programme for the day and also outlined some of the historical facts. He was full of knowledge and had an iPad with photographs from the period to illustrate various topics he was discussing.

We got to the Australian Memorial at about 9:20am. It opens at 9:30am. No one was there. The guide had good timing. He gave us a guide of the site and graves. It is actually a Commonwealth grave with most being Australian. There were British and Canadians buried here. The good thing about coming early is also it allows me to capture uninterrupted picture of the whole area. 

Australian National Memorial and John Monash Centre - Villers-Bretonneux
Australian Memorial looking down at Commonwealth graves towards the town of Amiens which the German objective. All Australian graves are marked by similar crosses to what is shown here. There are over 280 Commonwealth graves in Somme.

Gravestone of an unknown soldier

Most burial plots are near where the soldiers fell. The exception here will be the La Chapelette British and Indian Cemetery in Peronne where there are 571 identified graves and 6 unidentified. The 5th Indian Cavalry Division led the only cavalry charge on the Western front.

There is also a Chinese Cemetery at Noyelles-sur-Mer. The Chinese were brought in as labourers to build British war infrastructure and fortification. They mostly died of illness and mainly the Spanish flu.

View of memorial as the sun comes through
Looking toward Amiens
Entrance to memorial tower
Front of memorial tower
View from within tower
Aerial view towards Amiens. Fields between Amiens and memorial were battleground.
Villers-Bretonneux - church steeple visible. Fields in front were the battleground.
Aerial view through tower pillars
Furphy wall brick. John Furphy was a blacksmith from Victoria. He was famous for the Furphy water carts. Soldiers used to stand around the cart and exchange tales. Some of them were tall tales. Thus the slang "that's a furphy" was born. John Furphy's daughter is Dianne's great grandmother on the maternal side.
Tribute to Henry George Moore flashed up on large screen at John Monash Centre. Henry Moore is Dianne's granduncle who died on the Western Front and buried at Polygon Wood Cemetry in Belgium. According to his war records, he was a 27 year old farmer from Shepperton. He died within 7 months of enlistment.
Wall at memorial with names of missing soldiers inscribed.
Somme River that runs through Amiens and most of the battleground.

The Red Baron (Manfred von Richthofen) sustained a serious head wound and crashed in Vaux sur Somme on 6th July 2017. He was pursued by a Canadian pilot but later investigation credited Australian ground fire for bringing down the plane. He was 27 when he died.

Sign to Lochnagar Mine - Mine crater is located in La Boisselle. The mine was dug underneath German fortification by British Engineers and denoted on 1 July 2016. About 200 German soldiers were believed to have perished in the explosion. It is the largest crater in France from WW1.
Across fields from mine crater looking towards Albert.

British War Memorial in Thiepval

Fields near the town of Thiepval
Town of Thiepval. Town was completely rebuilt after the war.

The British War Memorial was large and impressive. After our visit of this site in Thiepval, we headed for the Newfoundland Memorial Park dedicated to Canadian soldiers. Most of the Canadian soldiers were from Newfoundland.  This site also contains reasonably preserved war trenches.

Caribou Memorial - this was essentially the Canadian position facing the German line.

Trenches in Newfoundland Memorial Park

The Newfoundand Memorial Park in Beaumont-Hamel is an actual battleground. It is littered with reasonably well preserved trenches. In other areas of Somme, trenches have been covered up and farming now takes place. The trenches in this park are exactly as they were 100 years ago.The original trenches were a lot deeper. Over time, soil fell into the trenches.

The Danger Tree - the only original petrified tree from the period. Many Canadians fell around this tree.
Looking across to the German lines from The Danger Tree.
German Trench
Laneway of Maple Trees heading back to Caribou Memorial
Dianne near Caribou Memorial.

View of battleground at Newfoundland Memorial Park

After Newfoundland Memorial Park, we headed for the town of Peronne for lunch. Peronne was a German stronghold during the war and was heavily shelled by the allies. We also visited the museum in town which had relics from the war period including period uniforms and weapons.

Town Hall
Roo de Kanga sign on Town Hall building
Somme River at Peronne
Back in Paris